Kareema and Kamilia go jellaba shopping

Many, many people in Morocco dress in Western-style clothing, but there are also a good number – especially in Fes – who opt for a more traditional wardrobe, the centerpiece of which is the jellaba. The best way I can describe the jellaba is as a sort of elven cloak: full-length, pull-over, hooded. It comes in all different patterns and materials, from leopard print to the “Moroccan cashmere” a shop owner touted to Sam the other day when we were out shopping (and which I might edit as “glorified felt”).

Independence-ing in Moulay Idriss and Volubilis

Wednesday, November 18, was Independence Day, established in acknowledgment of the liberation of Morocco from the French and Spanish protectorates in 1956. We had the day off from school, but the truth is that most Moroccans let the holiday pass without much more than a tip of the hat in its direction. As my friend Mustapha put it, independence was a big deal when it first happened, but over the years, celebrations have become more and more subdued, dying away to essentially nothing in recent years. That being said, a day off from school is a day off from school, so Rod and I decided to use it as an opportunity to visit the small town of Moulay Idriss and the Roman ruins of Volubilis, both accessible from Meknes, a city forty minutes east of Fes.

Under Moroccan Ground

We've established that Morocco has some pretty great mountains, but who knew that it is also home to the largest cave system in North Africa? Called the Gouffre du Friouato (the "Abyss" of Friouato... who or what Friouato is I don't know), this natural wonder can be found thirty-five kilometers outside of the small city of Taza, two hours northeast of Fes.