A night on the town

This afternoon around 5pm, I decide that I’ve read enough fascist newspapers for one day (¡Viva Franco! ¡Viva la nueva España!) and that what my Saturday really needs is a trip to the hammam.

Headed to Chauen; re-routed into politics

As part of my effort to meet Moroccan veterans of the Spanish Civil War, I set up an appointment a couple weeks ago with the representative of the Association Nationale des Anciens Combattants (ANAC) in the beautiful blue northern town of Chauen. Little did I know that my interaction with him would end up being a lesson on the Moroccan political environment.

Year in Review and a Word on Islamophobia

The new group of Fulbrighters arrived last week and with their coming, I marked my one-year anniversary in Morocco. It therefore seems an appropriate moment for self-reflection and evaluation, especially on my grant-related activities. In keeping with Fulbright’s dual objectives of cultural exchange and academic development, I’m dividing the list into two corresponding parts and also including a third one of goals for my remaining (less than!) three months. Finally, I want to throw all of the following activities into perspective by relaying some thoughts on the current controversy over the proposed Islamic community center in Lower Manhattan.

Ramadan Mabrook!

On the Roof of North Africa

Climbing Mt. Toubkal – the highest peak in North Africa at 4165 m, or 13665 ft – has been on Rod, Sam, Cath and my to-do list since we arrived nearly a year ago. We squeezed it in at Sam and Rod's last possible moment, making the trip south in the middle of August. As it turns out, access to the mountain is totally straightforward: several-hour train ride to Marrakesh, an hour-long wiiiinding grand taxi ride to the tiny town of Imlil and we were good to go.

More Middle East: The West Bank

I’d been hearing Rod talk about “Pali” (Palestine) for months, and so when he suggested I come visit during his time there this summer, it didn’t take much leg-pulling to get me to book tickets for a nine-day trip.

Ups and Downs of the Moroccan Foodscape

Last week I received an email from my beloved brother with the subject line, “I love America,” and a body that continued, “and our many food options. So sorry to do this to you, but I'm going to tell you anyway. I just had Salvadorean food for lunch and it was sooo good: plantain, black beans, pork, tamale, pupusa, potatoes... so yea, sorry again.”

Sorry indeed. Rub my nose in a plate of couscous, why don’t you.